Chems in your cosmetics
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This episode of 'Today, Explained' investigates the hidden dangers of chemicals in everyday cosmetics and hair products, focusing on synthetic braiding hair, wigs, and personal care items. Host John Gwinn-Hill explores a groundbreaking study by Dr. Alicia Franklin of the Silent Spring Institute, which found over 90% of tested hair extensions contained harmful chemicals like phthalates, flame retardants, and PFAS—known to cause cancer, birth defects, and hormone disruption. The episode traces the origins of these synthetic chemicals to wartime U.S. industrial efforts, particularly the Manhattan Project, and reveals how these materials were repurposed for consumer goods without safety testing. Despite growing public concern, U.S. cosmetic regulation remains weak, with the FDA lacking authority to proactively test or restrict most ingredients. In contrast, 17 states have stepped in with stricter laws. Experts like investigative journalist Mariah Blake and Columbia University professor Ami Zoda emphasize that this is not just a women’s health issue but a systemic environmental injustice rooted in colonialism and racism, disproportionately affecting Black women and marginalized communities. The episode concludes with practical advice: using apps like Clearia and Skin Deep to decode labels, reducing product use, and leveraging consumer power to demand safer alternatives.
Over 90% of tested hair extensions contain harmful chemicals like phthalates, flame retardants, and PFAS linked to cancer and reproductive harm.
The U.S. regulatory system presumes chemicals are safe until proven harmful—a model that has led to 80,000 untested chemicals in circulation.
PFAS and other 'forever chemicals' were developed during WWII for the Manhattan Project and later repurposed for consumer products without safety testing.
Chronic exposure from long-wear products like braids and foundations increases health risks due to cumulative chemical exposure.
States are leading the charge in regulating toxic chemicals, with 17 states enacting over 40 laws in response to public demand.
…and 2 more takeaways available in PodZeus
The Hidden Dangers of Braiding Hair
“Eight hours, two sets of hands and a lot of almonds later, I was ready for summer. Braids feel like a smart choice for me. The ends of my hair are tucked away safe and sound, no damage from heating tools and none of the toxic chemicals from relaxing it. Right?”
The Science Behind the Study
“It's not like your makeup where you put it on today, and by the end of the day, you're wiping it off. Braiding hair... you're exposed to a 24 hours a day, seven days a week for however many weeks you decide to wear it.”
The Origins of Forever Chemicals
“PFAS or Forever Chemicals were actually developed by the U.S. government as part of the Manhattan Project. Wow! Yes. Okay, Oppenheimer. Killian Murphy stares intensely into camera.”
The Flawed U.S. Regulatory System
The episode exposes the weaknesses in U.S. cosmetic regulation, where the FDA has minimal authority and chemicals are presumed safe until proven harmful. Only 11 ingredients have been restricted since 1938, despite over 80,000 chemicals in use.
State-Level Action and Consumer Power
With federal regulation stalled, 17 states have passed over 40 laws restricting toxic chemicals in personal care products. The episode highlights grassroots activism and the power of consumer demand to drive safer products.
“The closer you are to the top of that pyramid, the greater benefits you'll see. Whether it's a higher likelihood of finding a suitable husband in South Asian countries... or in this country, you know, the greater likelihood of getting a certain job if you're a Black woman and you wear your hair straight.”
“PFAS or Forever Chemicals were actually developed by the U.S. government as part of the Manhattan Project. Wow! Yes. Okay, Oppenheimer. Killian Murphy stares intensely into camera.”
“The vast majority of the 80,000 chemicals in circulation in the United States today have never undergone any form of safety testing. Oh, wow. At least not that the public and regulators know about.”
Host
Guests
Mariah Blake
person
PFAS
other
Dr. Alicia Franklin
person
FDA
other
Ami Zoda
person
Starbucks
brand
Phthalates
other
Silent Spring Institute
organization
Manhattan Project
other
Vox
other
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