Chems in your cosmetics

Today, Explained29mMay 10, 2026

Get the full intelligence

Search transcripts, export clips, track mentions, and explore all topics from “Chems in your cosmetics” inside PodZeus.

AI-Generated Summary

This episode of 'Today, Explained' investigates the hidden dangers of chemicals in everyday cosmetics and hair products, focusing on synthetic braiding hair, wigs, and personal care items. Host John Gwinn-Hill explores a groundbreaking study by Dr. Alicia Franklin of the Silent Spring Institute, which found over 90% of tested hair extensions contained harmful chemicals like phthalates, flame retardants, and PFAS—known to cause cancer, birth defects, and hormone disruption. The episode traces the origins of these synthetic chemicals to wartime U.S. industrial efforts, particularly the Manhattan Project, and reveals how these materials were repurposed for consumer goods without safety testing. Despite growing public concern, U.S. cosmetic regulation remains weak, with the FDA lacking authority to proactively test or restrict most ingredients. In contrast, 17 states have stepped in with stricter laws. Experts like investigative journalist Mariah Blake and Columbia University professor Ami Zoda emphasize that this is not just a women’s health issue but a systemic environmental injustice rooted in colonialism and racism, disproportionately affecting Black women and marginalized communities. The episode concludes with practical advice: using apps like Clearia and Skin Deep to decode labels, reducing product use, and leveraging consumer power to demand safer alternatives.

Key Takeaways
1

Over 90% of tested hair extensions contain harmful chemicals like phthalates, flame retardants, and PFAS linked to cancer and reproductive harm.

2

The U.S. regulatory system presumes chemicals are safe until proven harmful—a model that has led to 80,000 untested chemicals in circulation.

3

PFAS and other 'forever chemicals' were developed during WWII for the Manhattan Project and later repurposed for consumer products without safety testing.

4

Chronic exposure from long-wear products like braids and foundations increases health risks due to cumulative chemical exposure.

5

States are leading the charge in regulating toxic chemicals, with 17 states enacting over 40 laws in response to public demand.

…and 2 more takeaways available in PodZeus

Chapters
0:00
2 min

The Hidden Dangers of Braiding Hair

Eight hours, two sets of hands and a lot of almonds later, I was ready for summer. Braids feel like a smart choice for me. The ends of my hair are tucked away safe and sound, no damage from heating tools and none of the toxic chemicals from relaxing it. Right?

Highlight
2:00
3 min

The Science Behind the Study

It's not like your makeup where you put it on today, and by the end of the day, you're wiping it off. Braiding hair... you're exposed to a 24 hours a day, seven days a week for however many weeks you decide to wear it.

Highlight
5:00
5 min

The Origins of Forever Chemicals

PFAS or Forever Chemicals were actually developed by the U.S. government as part of the Manhattan Project. Wow! Yes. Okay, Oppenheimer. Killian Murphy stares intensely into camera.

Highlight
10:00
5 min

The Flawed U.S. Regulatory System

The episode exposes the weaknesses in U.S. cosmetic regulation, where the FDA has minimal authority and chemicals are presumed safe until proven harmful. Only 11 ingredients have been restricted since 1938, despite over 80,000 chemicals in use.

15:00
5 min

State-Level Action and Consumer Power

With federal regulation stalled, 17 states have passed over 40 laws restricting toxic chemicals in personal care products. The episode highlights grassroots activism and the power of consumer demand to drive safer products.

High-Impact Quotes
The closer you are to the top of that pyramid, the greater benefits you'll see. Whether it's a higher likelihood of finding a suitable husband in South Asian countries... or in this country, you know, the greater likelihood of getting a certain job if you're a Black woman and you wear your hair straight.
Ami Zoda24:56
Viral: 92.0
PFAS or Forever Chemicals were actually developed by the U.S. government as part of the Manhattan Project. Wow! Yes. Okay, Oppenheimer. Killian Murphy stares intensely into camera.
Mariah Blake13:48
Viral: 90.0
The vast majority of the 80,000 chemicals in circulation in the United States today have never undergone any form of safety testing. Oh, wow. At least not that the public and regulators know about.
Mariah Blake16:55
Viral: 88.0
Speakers

Host

John Gwinn-Hill

Guests

Dr. Alicia FranklinMariah BlakeAmi Zoda
Topics Discussed
Toxic Chemicals in Hair Extensions95%Environmental Justice in Beauty90%Regulatory Failures in Cosmetics88%History of Forever Chemicals85%Colonialism and Beauty Standards82%Cumulative Chemical Exposure80%State-Level Chemical Regulation78%Consumer Empowerment and Safety Apps75%
People & Brands

Mariah Blake

person

15xPositive

PFAS

other

14xNegative

Dr. Alicia Franklin

person

12xPositive

FDA

other

10xNegative

Ami Zoda

person

10xPositive

Starbucks

brand

8xPositive

Phthalates

other

8xNegative

Silent Spring Institute

organization

6xPositive

Manhattan Project

other

5xNeutral

Vox

other

4xNeutral

Get the full intelligence

Search transcripts, export clips, track mentions, and explore all topics from “Chems in your cosmetics” inside PodZeus.

Start discovering podcast insights today

Start with a 7-day trial and explore a growing catalog of popular podcasts. No credit card required.

No credit card required • 7-day trial • Cancel anytime