Feel the Beet: The Most Fascinating Woman You've Never Heard Of

This episode of Gastropod explores the surprising history and science behind the humble beet, revealing it as a plant with a rich and complex legacy. Hosts Cynthia Graber and Nicola Twilley delve into the evolution of beets from ancient sea beet leaves used in salads to the modern sugar beet, a crop that now supplies half of America's sugar. Central to the story is Lydia Mariah Child, a pioneering 19th-century abolitionist, writer, and the first American sugar beet farmer, whose radical activism and visionary attempt to undermine slavery through beet sugar farming nearly bankrupted her and her husband. Despite the failure of their farm, Child’s writings helped galvanize the abolitionist movement. The episode also examines the science behind why many people dislike beets—due to geosmin (earthy taste) and oxalates (mouth-irritating crystals)—and introduces Erwin Goldman, the only public beet breeder in the U.S., who has spent decades breeding a new variety called Badger Flame: a low-geosmin, low-oxalate beet that tastes sweet and crisp like a carrot. Though some purists lament its departure from traditional beet flavor, the new beet represents a breakthrough in making beets more accessible to skeptics. The episode concludes with a celebration of the beet’s resurgence in modern cuisine, from Martha Stewart’s influence to trendy beet and goat cheese salads. Key takeaways include: 1) Beets are not just a vegetable but a plant family with deep historical roots and economic significance; 2) Lydia Mariah Child was a trailblazing feminist and abolitionist whose work helped shape American social reform; 3) The sugar beet revolution was driven by geopolitical crises and scientific innovation; 4) Modern breeding can reduce off-putting flavors in beets, making them more palatable; 5) The Badger Flame beet is a breakthrough in plant breeding, though it may change the very identity of the beet. The tone is hopeful and inspiring, celebrating resilience, innovation, and the quiet power of overlooked women and plants.