Introducing: The American Climbing Journal, with Editor Matt Samet
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In this episode of the American Alpine Club Podcast, host Hannah Provo sits down with Matt Samet, the newly appointed managing editor of the American Climbing Journal (ACJ), a groundbreaking new publication launched in 2026 to document the year's most significant rock climbing achievements. Samet, a climbing veteran with 40 years of experience and 25 years in climbing media, explains that the ACJ fills a critical gap left by the decline of print climbing magazines. Unlike online content that’s fragmented and transient, the ACJ serves as a permanent, curated 'journal of record' for rock climbing—covering hard sport climbing, bouldering, traditional climbing, big walls, and access victories from across the U.S. and globe. The journal emphasizes first-person narratives from climbers themselves, offering deep dives into the stories behind major ascents, such as Adam Ondra’s E11 flash on Lexicon, Julian’s first female ascent of the Platinum Wall, and Katie Lamb’s historic V16 climb on The Dark Side. Samet also discusses the editorial philosophy of preserving authentic voices, avoiding heavy-handed editing, and the challenges of defining 'significance' in real time. He reflects on how the ACJ could have preserved forgotten milestones like Mark Hudon and Max Jones’ pioneering free climb on El Cap, and how it now provides a trusted, fact-checked archive in an era of unreliable AI-generated climbing history. The inaugural edition will be available to AAC members at the Partner, Leader, or Advocate level, with a special signed hardcover edition featuring Adam Ondra.
The American Climbing Journal (ACJ) is a print 'journal of record' for rock climbing, covering 2025’s most significant ascents across all disciplines, including bouldering, sport, trad, and big walls.
The ACJ prioritizes first-person narratives from climbers, offering deeper storytelling than online news, with features on historic ascents, access victories, and personal journeys.
Unlike digital content, the ACJ provides a permanent, curated archive that preserves climbing history as it happens, countering the fragmentation and unreliability of internet sources.
The journal includes regional crag profiles, global reports, and special features on milestones like the first V18 boulder and the first female ascent of major big walls.
Editor Matt Samet emphasizes preserving authentic voices, avoiding editorial overreach, and using the ACJ as a living, evolving record that will improve with community feedback.
…and 1 more takeaway available in PodZeus
Introducing the American Climbing Journal
“We're not aiming to be news. We're not a magazine. We're not like, here's the latest breaking thing. But we're going deeper. Here's a first person feature from the person who did this climb.”
The Vision and Scope of the ACJ
Samet outlines the ACJ’s structure and content, emphasizing its focus on first-person storytelling, regional crag profiles, access victories, and global climbing milestones. The journal covers everything from bouldering and sport climbing to big wall free ascents and traditional routes.
Defining 'Significance' in Real Time
“We're trying to do that with rock climbing too. But like in the American rock section... there's information sure in a hard sense, but there's also information on places that are new or access victories.”
The Power of First-Person Storytelling
“I don't want the ACJ to sound like it was all written by Matt Samet at all. I really don't.”
Preserving Climbing History in Real Time
“It's history to me, but it's not history to you. It's something you live through.”
“It's history to me, but it's not history to you. It's something you live through.”
“You know, it's a living document. It's a work in progress and the journal of record, I think it's ticking a lot of boxes that the magazines weren't necessarily able to hit back in the day.”
“We're not aiming to be news. We're not a magazine. We're not like, here's the latest breaking thing. But we're going deeper. Here's a first person feature from the person who did this climb.”
Host
Guest
Matt Samet
person
American Climbing Journal
other
American Alpine Club
organization
American Alpine Journal
other
Adam Ondra
person
Katie Lamb
person
Julian
person
Gemini
other
Patagonia
brand
Climbing Magazine
other
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