A State-by-State Guide to the Greatest Burger Joints in America

In this episode of All of It, host Alison Stewart interviews George Motz, chef, author, and owner of Hamburger America in Soho, about the fourth edition of his acclaimed book, Hamburger America: A State-by-State Guide to 220 of the Greatest Burger Joints in America. Motz, a former filmmaker whose documentary on burgers sparked a lifelong obsession, discusses the book’s evolution, the importance of simplicity in great burgers, and the regional diversity of American burger culture—from butter burgers in Wisconsin to green chili cheeseburgers in New Mexico and deep-fried patties in the Midwest. He shares stories behind iconic joints like Shady Glen in Connecticut, Jack’s Drive-In near Albany, and Corner Bistro in NYC, while also addressing myths (like New Haven’s Louie’s Lunch being the original hamburger) and the role of 'expert burger tasters' (EBTs) in discovering new spots. Listeners call in with their favorite local burger destinations, from Milestone in Connecticut to Bill’s Burgers in LA and Ted’s in Buffalo, highlighting the deep emotional and cultural connection Americans have with their local burger joints. Motz emphasizes that the best burgers are often the simplest, and that authenticity, history, and focus are what allow these institutions to endure. The episode also explores the future of the hamburger, with Motz predicting a return to thicker, more substantial patties after a trend toward thin, trendy options. He reflects on the importance of preserving historic burger spots—like Hildebrandt’s on Long Island, saved by a diner who bought it on a whim—and the significance of efficient, open-kitchen designs like those inspired by the 1939 World’s Fair’s Diner of the Future. Despite the rise of veggie burgers and plant-based options, Motz maintains that burger joints should stay true to their core identity, letting specialists handle what they do best. The conversation closes with Motz’s refusal to pick a favorite burger spot, underscoring the book’s celebration of America’s diverse and deeply personal burger culture.